More County Capers

August 10th 

Once again left in doubt by the fickle forecast, flirted with a trip to Frogatt Edge but we went with the BBC and looked north for the second week running.  In keeping with last week's return to a venue that had been ignored for a while, a fast drive up the A1 led us to the fascinating formations of the sandstone edge at;

Bowden Doors

In fact the last visit on record is 2013. (AT with the Gman) and it was tough going.   Details here

In a burst of optimism (fantasy?), AT set out a HIT LIST of  target routes for the day.

A total of 14 was pretty much a work of fiction for a six hour session, although CB could no doubt have managed that given the right partner.

Managed 11 on the day.  Twice as many as last time.

AT got into gear on a Diff and Vdiff double.

Second Staircase (L) required an unorthodox facing out solution to the exit overhang problem.

Deception Crack (R) gives great 3D climbing with excellent protection.  Now gets a star on UKC.

The Cheviot provides a magnificent setting.

Black and Tan has a hard start but both CB and AT despatched first go.

The Scoop (VS 4c) is pretty run out in the middle third.

CB makes short work of the fingery laybacks on 2nd Leaning Groove.

Despite the absence of any rests until high up, placement of perfect gear was managed with speed and economy as usual.

AT's facsimile ready to tackle the sting in the tail on Scorpion

Banana Wall is a sea of rippling rock with little worthwhile gear.

But CB managed to find a spot for a friend that might have held.

Next week - Frogatt?

Sounds by a Geordie boy

And the mighty Zep

 

County Lines

August 3rd

A few weeks back CB mooted the prospect of a return to a venue up in Northumberland (a.k.a "the County" to local inhabitants).  After a mixed week with occasional heavy showers the forecast for Monday started improving from Thursday onwards.  Sunday evening was glorious so we were all set for heading north to the less frequently visited ramparts of Hadrian's Wall and the blocky buttresses of;

Peel Crag

As expected, there was a bit of an amphitheatre atmosphere going on with a continuous stream of walkers and sight seeing types coming along the path to the crag and up over the side path to the Roman Wall.  So the climbs were interspersed with pleasant banter with the invading hordes.  All adding to a really enjoyable day in glorious weather.

CB walking in behind another party.

Sunset (MS allegedly)

AT leads with suprising alacrity considering the weird Whinsill rock takes some getting used to.

Photo of another climber taken later in the day.

Next on the list of County Lines - Twin Cracks (r).

CB had a struggle with some slippery rock on the crux, managed to step right and make alternate moves.  AT on the other hand failed to manage either option.  Got up with some helpful ropework from above.  5b in the conditions today?

The line on the left is Grog, the last route of the day.  Sunset up the middle.

Pic from 2010.

After a rapid retreat down the grades for a pleasant ascent of Ulysses at VDiff, CB ups the ante again on Overhanging Crack (VS 4c).

AT follows much more capably this time.

CB shot up Tiger's Overhang.

(pic ©odox UKC)

Which promptly shot down AT's attempt at a clean second.

For future reference, commit to the rh high foothold and reach for the good spike handhold.

Two more routes left

AT back down the grades for a nip up Route 1

CB up Grog at Severe 

(A very good route left of Sunset)

CB took charge of  most nearly all rope coiling in the interest of leaving AT with enough in the tank for climbing.

Towards the end of the afternoon the walkers began to drop to just a few, at peak time it was a procession.

Sponsored by Troll pants.

Todays venue a glorious setting

Perfect spot for refreshments found in Corbridge, outside seats facing west.

Castle Rock Combo's.

 Tuesday July 13th 

You wait for two years then two of them come at once.  We're talking about a rapid return to the warm welcoming rock of;

Castle Rock of Triermain

The original thinking was a trip up to Peel Crag in Northumberland, but continuous rain east of the Pennines all day Monday put paid to that plan, weather out west much better, CB more than happy to switch sides and return to trad after a fairly sporty week or so in Pembroke with CC.

CB made very short work of Via Media

AT catches up on a missed route from the June visit

Gangway Climb

(pic from the vaults)

CB heading up to the big niche on Direct Route

AT invents a Gangway plus Wall climb combo.

CB followed on with a three route cocktail

Start up Direct Route.  Carry on up Failed Romantic.  Traverse left onto to Romantically Challenged

AT followed in good order

CB looking typically laid back after wandering at will up the south face

AT added one more route - Lilith (featuring direct finish)

NB Route 5 gets 5b on UKC

Broke through the 200m barrier - possibly close to the Idwal Slabs day 

L-R

Via Media

Direct Route

Colin's Combo (see 5 above)

Gangway Climb

Gangway plus Wall climb combo

Lilith

Herdwick Inn

Inevitable

Moors Multiplier

 Friday June 2

Early hours looked very appealing here at BW - it looked like the NY Moors multi-crag option is in play.  So parked at Clay Bank and arrived in good order about 10.15 at;

Ravens Scar

Quite sticky, no wind at all, fly repellant helped persuade us to stay for a few prime routes. 

AT with yet another repeat of Forest Face.

But always great value at the grade with plenty of exposure and variety.

En Passant

BP tackles the grungy start.  The moves up the groove succumb to a detemined approach.

Whatever you do don't go left Mr P.

AT had a look at the direct start on Airlift, too pokey for now so the East Face start seemed the sensible option.

Time to move across to the fresh breezy buttresses over at the;

Wainstones

Relaxing late lunch.

Very much the usual suspects, three Lings and a Sphinx

BP shows the way

Fellow climber tackles a direct option

(it is listed in UKC in fact)

(below)

Thought he was about to be heading south but he got some gear in here.

Phew!

Greatest hits selection

More Lakes Favourites

 June 29th

The trip to Scout Crags signalled a welcome return to the Lake District.  So two years after the last visit the drawbridge is lowered and a raiding party sent to grapple with the ramparts of;

Castle Rock of Triermain

Temperatures out west stay in the twenties and with a mid summer sun beating down it was always going to be a warm one. Neckerchiefs and bottles of frozen water required, together with a more leisurely approach to the day.  Surprise meeting on arrival with BP's fellow CMC stalwarts J and S A.

Crag looms through the digitalis glade

BP captures some early action whilst AT returns to car to retrieve crag essentials.

Leeds climber on Gangway Direct.

V bold climbing.

BP on Wall Climb

Bomber #10 wire at the crux

AT repeats BP's placements at the start of Slab Climb

Entering the finishing groove

All in good order so far

BP in a similar position to tackle the crux bulge on Lilith

A route with plenty of variety and a more imaginative name.

2pm and time for a break

AT wimpishly hands BP the lead on Via Media

Worth more than S4a

Especially opting for the direct finish up the steep headwall with 35m of rope in tow.

Not to mention the peaking temperatures.

Time to call it a draw

Refreshments

Home in time to see the goals replayed

Hot Scot

 Tuesday June 22

Summertime and the living easy.  When the weather is fine you can touch the sky and you've got climbing on your mind.  Incoming messages from BP and TM combined to create the opportunity for a gang hang at this year's first choice Re-Hab venue.

Scot Crags, Scugdale

TM and MT already in action on arrival at 10.30.  Then who'd have thought it but NP and bro-in-law MW turn up as well!  All very social.

All pics via BP's iPhone, AT's remained at home for a rest.

MT makes elegant shapes on Scugdale Chimney

Zeta Wall right of this

Good 3D action

TM on Zeta Wall

The start is in a micro-zone of excess gravity.

Things get easier higher up

AT takes advantage of MT's offer and follows in deceptive style after a couple of failures lower down.

TM provided the required beta about the decent hold.  No charge!  What a gent.

BP lets slip the dogs of war on Pup's climb

Note finishing moves can be protected by the gold hex

(not the blue one)

All very hot by now, called it a draw at about 15.30

That pint in Potto just evaporated!