Shepherds All Stars

 Wednesday June 7th

Great conditions continue to prevail out west, whilst east of the Pennines the North Sea maintains its malign influence on the local meteorology.  Wondered if Corby's might move back to the top of the list, but the promise of a full day's sunshine swung it so we were back at Borrowdale to select some starred routes at;

Shepherd's Crag

Depart 08.30 for a 10.05 arrival at Kettlewell car park.  Just one party setting off up Adam and by 10.50 AT all geared up to head up P1-2 of the classic Little Chamonix.  Need to hold it together for about 8 metres on polished holds then the route simply swallows gear.

The start to Adam is pretty poky so we pressed on.

CB on the high reaches of Little Chamonix P3

Terrific outlook from the belay corner

Top pitch

CB peeking down top right

Vista from the Belvedere

CB places gear on the upper wall of Derision Groove (MVS 4b)

Rope Ritual

Derwent Water

Today's boat being pushed out.

CB leads Kransic Crack Direct (HVS 5a).  

From here make committing moves through the bulge and out onto a steep wall and positive holds to finish.  AT followed in good order.

Original image © cheeky UKC 

Reaching the good holds in a fantastic position

Original image © Robbie Hearns UKC

Brown Slab Scoop 

CB starting the final run out section, of which there are three on this route.  

The start.  The middle.  And the end.

There is gear, just enough once past the tree and above the moss.

Kransic Crack Direct

Brown Slabs Scoop

Crag very quiet, just one or two parties not doing very much

From the night before

Chuck Prophet

Leeds Brudenell Social Club

Quayfoot Crackers

Wednesday May 31st

Northumberland was mooted as a potential option with Corby's on the list for another go at making some routes work at that venue.  However the Lakes weather looked much better, with nailed on sunshine all day and virtually no rain there for the last three weeks.  

So the window for one of this year's objectives was wide open. The plan slid effortlessly into place and a ten am departure from BW timed things just right for the Borrowdale sun to come round onto;

Quayfoot Buttress

After last year's Mandrake outing, the mission was to do a repeat of Aberration (climbed with BP June 2014), and a new route (for AT) Irony, a fairly natural follow on at HVS 5a.  A Big Day in the North!

Set out from Darlington in cold, grim and slightly damp conditions but once past Appleby it was wall to wall blue sky and perfect climbing weather.  First route of the day under way at 12.25.

Seemed sensible to fill the time before the sun came round with a sortie up the always shaded ramps and walls of the regular VDiff.  

Rock in great condition and a world of difference from the water dripping off the route back in April 2015 with NB and The Gman.

Seems like CB gets the 1000 mile stare

Meanwhile the spirit of JW remains on belay there ever since 15/9/2002

AT clipped in after the initial bold move at the start of Aberration P2

Fabulous position and setting

Great climbing across the slab with good holds and eventually good gear.

The finishing chimney is no pushover though.

BP back in 2014

CB weaving a way up P1-2 of Irony

For the record the route moves right at the first overhang (mid picture).  Some climbers are tempted left there.

Just saying.

CB helped AT struggle up to the belay with a load bearing rope

AT had got some sneaky beta on abseil and fancied the chances of leading the crux P3.

A peg protects(?) the tricky moves to the left and the pull up onto the headwall above.

Unfortunately  after several goes AT is unable to find a rabbit out of the hat and leaves it to CB to show the way.

Busy day from 2009 on the upper reaches of the crag.

CB on the Crypt (bottom left)

Climber on Aberration (centre left)

Climbers starting Irony P3 

(upper right)

L-R

Quayfoot Buttress

Aberration

Irony

In the pub by 17.50!

 

 Let it Bleed Post Script;

A little critter hitched a ride back and helped itself to a feed of blood from just below AT left knee.  Spotted on Friday early morning, went to DMH A&E.  Seen within 20 minutes by a young doctor who was expert in extricating the tick with specially shaped tweezers.  All completely removed and comprehensive oral and written information on what to watch for and any action to take if symptoms develop.  Fantastic service. Well done DMH!

True Grit Durham Style

 Sunday 28th May

It's the Bank Holiday, travelling may be tricky, the regular venues will be well visited, and parking could be a problem. So the Lakes are let go, the Peak will be under pressure, and Northumberland a no-no.   

So time to think outside the box - CB comes up with a rarely visited Durham Esoterica out by the Pennine Way.  Has to be....

Goldsborough Carr!

A spirit of adventure was packed in the sack and was taken all the way up Teesdale to a quality Durham venue, there aren't many of those and this is one of them.  Providing you are a lightweight muscular immortal with a stack of mats below you.

The last time was a long time ago (31/03/1999) and it was well 'ard then only 2 routes done.

Pennine

Pan

O 

Rama

Toyed with the North side

Then let it be

The South Side features some enticing walls.

If only you can get up onto them

A solid step ladder would be a big help

6 Routes done across three walls

This is Thin Wall Buttress featuring the Classic Fiddlers Arete at HVS 5b

Maggie's Wall (S4a) and a variant by the arete at about the same grade

The undercut direct is HVS 5b

CB on Maggie's wall, steep at the grade and a nervy top out.  

As per all the routes at this venue

Here's two views of the classic Fiddler's Arete at HVS 5b

© Ian1001 UKC

©Tom Peckitt UKC

CB exits via the descent chute

And return via Pennine Way

Battle of the Bulges

 Thursday 18th May

Chance to conjure a day out before the trip down south, BP shuffles his deck and creates space to join in so it's three Busketeers versus the bulges and breaks of;

Brimham Rocks

Cubic block was first port of call, inevitably.  But three top ropes were already draped down and a fourth in progress.  

Managed to squeeze one route in before the Army boys arrived in force.

Maloja is conveniently located en-route to everywhere else.  So it always gets done.

Rude not to.

AT tries to put on a suitable show for the passing tourists.

Tested previous record of what gear goes where, with mixed results.

The yellow and orange friends make a good pairing to take care of the pleasant finish past the Cannon Hole.

Memo to self;

Don't leave gear on the top.

CB getting Appie.

This might be the alternative start at HS 5a

Would account for AT and BP starting from somewhere else.

Get's more amenable higher up.

BP in similar shape

One of several transitions to the next sector.

A feature of this venue. 

The Cracked Buttress is frequently passed by.

Not today.

CB on Parallel cracks at VS 4c

The finish is a gumption boiler

BP battling with yet another bulge

Attempting a route last done in 2000.

It's got a lot harder since then, and AT abandoned the attempt in favour of a wander back to Cubic Block

CB retrieved AT's new sling from its holiday at the top of Cannon Rock

AT solved Shorty's dilemma with some Binks Beta

BP breaking out on Old Corner 

HVD allegedly

More bulges and big breaks to finish a testing day out

Scugdale Sunday Social

 Sunday May 7th

Rain overnight but forecast for a sunny afternoon remained in place, so we kept the faith and pledged an oath of allegiance for an afternoon's homage to our local venue;

Scot Crags, Scugdale

AT, CB popped into the Rusty Bike for an early lunch and headed up to the crag for a 12.45 start.  Sun out, no wind, warm, what's happening!!??

BP arrives to join in on Nook and Cranny Direct

And follows up with a regal lead on Corner LH

AT makes the balance moves to join Corner RH

Good hand holds and pre-placed gear make for a stress free finish.

Woodpecker Wall and Romulus are added to the guest list,.

BP roams up Romulus

Here's AT wondering where the footholds are on Wolf Whistle

Another right royal cam goes in the break

Then CB follows

CB turns on the anti gravity

Two more great placements ready for a problematic finish with dusty footholds adding to the interest.

DYNA

MIC

BP gets on up

"Is that Colin Binks?"

BP enjoying some heavy petting

Showing fine form fit for a king to be sure.

Still have to put on a good show for the other parties arriving to make the most of todays conditions.

AT crowns the day off with another jewel of a route.

Seeing as it's Sunday the Black Horse Beer Garden is open for business.

Be rude not to stop by.