Peak Efficiency

 Thursday June 14th

There's a lapse in the heatwave for a few days, best conditions further south, the Peak is far enough, so options galore.  In the interests of maximum mileage opted for the shortest walk in possible and the most user friendly venue in the area.  It had to be;

Yarncliffe

Last trip there 2018, we were going well then with the crag in excellent condition throughout.  Details here

Today's mission a bit less ambitious, up the mileage, maximise movement, build confidence, push the envelope just a bit.  

Five routes on this wall

Car parked about 45 seconds walk away

This sector all the ingredients.  Jamming here, crimping there, some small footholds, the occasional smear and plenty of gear. (some to be found in the boot of the car).

BP brushing his way up Ant's Crack (S 4a).

Delightful despite the sandy holds, the new brush comes in really handy here.

Latecomer (HS 4b) is also highly entertaining

Red pants de rigeur today

The forecast rain showers missed us and the rest of the day offered perfect climbing conditions with a clean sweep in prospect.

Ant's Wall (HS 4a) offers more delicate moves, a bold start leads to good gear and absorbing climbing

Angular Climb 

AT opts for the variation (at S 4a) to avoid the scruffy crack by keeping to the wall on the left.  Hard to resist side runners all the way.

Much nicer, moving back right just below the top. 

The alternate start to Cardinal's Arete (VS 4b) avoids the strenuous 4c opening moves but is quite technical and protection is a bit hard to place whilst hanging off small holds.

The red friend fits a slot here perfectly.

BP looks at the long span left that leads back to the arete proper.

That red friend also essential for a critical placement higher up. 

BP gets by with some side runners today, must take two next time!

All Ant's ticked of but this one.  Inspected on abseil.

Ant's Arete (VS 4a).  Thin moves on obscure footholds and sloping hands between small rests suggest a somewhat stiffer grade.

A lone #1 wire is all there is for quite a way.

There is finally a nest of gear options from this ledge to take care of more tenuous moves to finish the last 4 metres or so.

AT's gear also included a blue friend just right of  the small Rock Empire.

BP on 2nd found room for a yellow Metolious and #4 rock between that and the RH wire.

Collectively that would make 6.

Fall Pipe looked in very good condition.  It called to us but so did the pub.

One to come back to, AT's turn for the lay back epic at VS 4c.

Go-to Gear of the Day award goes to this new addition making its debut on the harness.

Invaluable on this dusty part of the crag.  All holds left nice and tidy for the evening gang arriving as we left on the arduous forty five second trek back to the car.

L-R

Ant's Arete

Latecomer

Ant's Crack

Ant's Wall

Angular Climb

Off Pic - Cardinal's Arete

A Quick One-Two down Borrowdale way.

 Thursday July 7th

Spent Wednesday pottering about and generally taking it easy after our Blockheads day out on Tuesday.  Early evening the phone pinged and CB made an offer I can't refuse, a quick there-and-back out west to the Bowderstone car park and the immediate crags of;

Wodens Face and Quayfoot Buttress

Four and six years respectively since the last contact with these two venues, so an early start to allow time for the multi-crag itinerary, and also an early finish to give CB time to regroup for his drive up to the Borders early evening.

National Trust Card saved a goodly sum

AT set a fairly high starting bar with a nervy lead on Blue Riband (HS4b - route 3 above)

CB followed with a solid romp up Wodens Face Direct (7) at VS 4c. The bulge is turned on the right with some devious footwork

Good practice for what's coming later......

Wimpy Way (S 4a #5) is always enjoyable and finished of an excellent morning.

A quick bite at the car park and on up to the still shady ramparts of Quayfoot Buttress to execute today's core mission

Mandrake HVS 5a.

AT has heard this route calling for a few years now.  

Time to answer it.

These days described as one pitch.

At 44m with a traverse it's a bit much

Opted for an old style 2 pitch effort.

CB arrives at the belay.  An exposed spot.

AT hanging belay facing in off a six point anchor.......

Pictures of P2 not possible from the belay

Taken from the top-out, the leader of the following team making the traverse to below the crux overlap.

Belayer just visible way below.

Photo-montage of CB near the same point

Source pic © Mark Glaister UKC

The following team dealing with the final crux moves.

AT opts to walk off whilst the following team ab-off down an odd line.

Back in the car park in good time for a swift half and home before 6pm.

What a day.

Cubism

 Tuesday July 5th

Seemed like a good day for another session on grit.  Set out a mission to get all the routes done on Cubic Block - one of the most user friendly sectors at;

Brimham Rocks

Today's 

play

ground

BP gets the mission under way on 

Great Slab (HVD)

AT enjoying ideal climbing conditions

Keeping track of gear used for each route

For file and future reference

Aim is to carry only required gear at any future visit.

And keep us amused.

Heather Wall (S 4a) has 2 cruxes

Getting of the ground and moving up to the second break

After that it's Romp City

The ab-off provided relief from the usual nervy descent down the LH side of the block.

BP at the crux of Cubic Corner

Out of reach move gets protected by a clip into the side rope.

Phew! (Last gear is well below feet)

Square Route is bold but steady.  Good gear arrives eventually

(as shown in pics 2,3,4,5 below)

Pic 1

Maloja belay anchor

Time for a quick walk up to Cannon Rock

BP finishes off a great day with a well protected lead of 

Maloja (VS 4c)

Gearfest for Maloja

In ascending order bottom to top

Cross referenced to spreadsheet....!!

Look North

Tuesday 28th June

A week is a long time in weather.uk.   Last  Tuesday was a bit of a blue sky boiler, add seven days and it's strong southerly winds and a high cloud cover.  So given how dry it's been there has to be the prospect of good conditions at the north facing moors classic venue of;

Raven's Scar

Just as planned all was quiet and still in the lee of the imposing dark facets stretching below the crest of Hasty Bank.  A quick confab and an amenable intro to the day led to tackling two variations on the steep walls and breaks of the Airlift monolith.

AT sets up for the airy finish

Belay all pre-arranged courtesy BP

BP took advantage of the pre-set belay and repeated the route

But starting a bit lower down at the bottom of the right right wall. 

Adds a lot to the intimidation factor.

Tumble Down Crack     (VS 5a) has been on the wish list for a while.

Good gear above but AT couldn't find the right moves to make much progress

Despite a combined effort the wish list is where it stays.

BP nearly got to the half way ledge (top left) but had to back off the precarious exit.

TM on this route

Attempted similar shapes but missed out of some holds higher up on the left.

Back on to the spectacular line of Forest Face (HS 4b)

The best route at the grade in the NYM

AT contemplates the moves up the steep undercut groove of En Passant (S 4b)

Turned into a bit of an arm stretching struggle.

Late lunch (protracted efforts on Tumble Down Crack) then BP took a turn on Waterslide (HS 4b)

In better shape than 4 weeks backl, plenty of chalk, a lot less gunge.

Nonetheless very good value

All today's belays in a superb setting

A bit of fun to finish off

Tumble Down Dick is better than it looks

Still not easy having a good time

Note

Route 3 is a DNF

selected

tracks

off

these

three

greats