Moors Multicrag

 Sunday May 15th

CB returns from the Peak.  BP up for a return to the rock.  TM and MT opt in.   All the ingredients in place for a visit to the venues lurking up on Hasty Bank below the Cleveland Way, kicking off with a session at;

The Wainstones

TM, MT already on station setting up ropework to give EJ a chance to push the boat out on behalf of the youth contingent on Ali Baba E2 5c.

Meanwhile BP gets the pensioners party under way with a rather more amenable route.  Just to loosen things up before the proper hard stuff to come somewhere around Hard Severe.

After a little rehearsal EJ gets on the sharp end and makes short work of  this bold and formidable route.

Fulfilling all the promise on show back in July 2019 at Ravenscar.

TM thinks this may be a first female lead.

Pensioners look on. 

Air is heavy with respect and retrospection

CB overcomes a bad bout of white fingers to retrieve the gear 

Seeing CB have to struggle made EJ's effort all the more inspirational

CB wanders up Ling Buttress

(S 4a)

BP at the same point

BP ready for the awkward top out on Groove and Crack 

(S 4a)

By this time the wind funnelling straight up Bilsdale was really starting to pick up.

A spot of lunch then a wander across to the Dark Side

Raven's Scar

AT doing his best to pretend that Waterslide (HS 4b) is not in fact as dirty as only it can be at this time of year.

Which it is.

Gaining this little ledge is awkward at the best of times.

Kneeds must

Guano has dried up.

Mostly

A balancy move left leads to a shuffle off and stake belay

Adventurous

AT and CB on belay

BP on for a stiff drink.

Forest Face sees a lot more traffic and was pristine by comparison

CB leads

BP in the same spot

BP showing some rope tricks on the summit of Airlift

Airlift

Direct start

The opening moves are surprisingly pokey.

BP remains unfazed and cuts loose round the corner

Continues up the east face in fine style

CB shows one of his classic shapes

A bit on the side.

Can't beat it

Kyloe Direct

 Thursday May 5th

Various options in play, CB's final message said `simply "North!"

So inevitably Northumberland, after a heavy shower en route found ourselves in the lee of the Cheviot under the damp looking buttresses of

Kyloe

Sheep on sentry duty

Baa'ing access to the crag.....

Looked quite damp but was actually in good shape

Saint's Progress at S4b is a good opener to get the feel of  County sandstone after a couple of limestone days.

Took shelter from a short shower then moved along to the glade.

CB making good progress after taking some time to sort out the moves on the awkward crux of Flake Crack (S 4b)

Opting for a sporting finish direct up the headwall 

Normally the exit is leftwards through the large break.  

Following this direct finish seemed to be de rigeur for the day.

Storm Arwen has wreaked havoc above the routes

The pines lie low at Kyloe

At least four large trees down, this one across the entrance to the usual descent gully in this sector.

Like Armageddon up there.

More details in this UKC report here

AT continues the trend with a direct finish of Christmas Tree Arete at VS 4c.

Will need to be going well to get up Gagarin's Groove, the open corner on the right.

CB follows after a little moment up the damp starting crack which was even more nervy than usual 

Bone dry above that though.

Gold Bonger sits well in that pocket (bottom right)

CB won't be fooled by the awkward moves stretching above on Deception Crack  

(HS 4b)

AT solved the crux facing right on side pulls and Egyptians

A spot of lunch then a tricky choice from the Eeny Meeny Miny Mo quartet.

It's a very long time since Meeny drew the straw so it seemed about time to get on up there.

Lovely climbing leads to another direct finish up a dirty slab and sloping mantelshelf exit.

Better than the dirty groove which is basically a walk out.

Deception Wall (HS 4c) requires a bold approach before fantastic flakes and jugs lead to a romping finish.

Direct is the only alternative hereabouts.

BETA ALERT

AT stiffened up some sinews and mustered up some moxy to shimmy up the steep start of Twin Cracks.

All a bit desperate until CB prompted a bomb proof placement for the blue offset AT was waving hopefully at the crack. After that things went swimmingly.

(c) RockFax App

Still time for another Direct Finish.

CB tops out on Mo (S4a)

A well set bit of camming is always very calming.

Just got past 100m   Seemed like a fair bit more!

Note; 

Route 5 is Meeny not Eeny

Twistling the Day Away

 27th April 2022

CB is on a limestone high, spent Tuesday on Giggleswick and once again followed the sun across the Pennines with AT at the wheel, driving past Viaductus Ribbulus for some more prime lime on the off-white walls of;

Twistleton Scar

Quite cold on arrival, air at about 7 degrees with a gentle but very cold NE breeze adding to the chill factor.   Got going straight away and soon after noon clouds parted and some solid rays brought ideal conditions.

Priority (VS 4c) 

CB goes for a good wire to help take care of the rather worrying moves up right across the polished hanging slab

Back in 2012 another climber ponders the line across the slab to where there are footholds that can be relied on.

Ten years have passed and it's still a gibber fest.

Talking of nerves CB seems to have none.

AT has some way to go to reach this level of confidence!

Especially as the doubled 30m rope needed a bit of stretch to reach safe landings.

As Duane Eddy used to say "The twang's the thang.!"

Belays all good

Two more routes up this sector

AT had started up this one (Angel Delight HS4b), and placed the gear, thought about the big move right.

But got cold feet and scooted up the left hand groove instead. (Cold Feet VD)

CB had no such worries with a fine finish to another excellent day.

Ingleborough dominates the skyline

Locals

Climbing at cruising altitude

Eden Valley Esoterica

 Wednesday 20th April

In keeping with an effort to avoid Easter hot-cross-spots, we continue the consideration of less well travelled venues, and stuck with the plan mooted in the Jet Miners last Friday.  So we travelled just over the Pennines into the Eden Valley.  A sylvan glade up above the river Lyvennet reveals numerous bays of rough limestone feature soaring cracks, corners and faces, taking its name from the nearby hamlet of;

Kings Meaburn

Also known as Jackdaw Scar and home of some of AT's early climbing escapades with JW and the Gman.  Last visited (briefly) with BP in 2009!  The pre blog-world!

Lovely dappled light creates a delightful atmosphere.

Rock dry and quite clean, some chalk in evidence here and there.  Perfect climbing conditions.

Not a soul about, tranquility rules.

Bay Rum at VD takes the obvious leaning corner, which is surprisingly steep (as are all the routes here).  The corner  is too big for any of our gear and other placements are hard to find.  Plenty of adventure at the grade then!

Archive picture looking down the route.  The big tree is now on the ground and has created some very useful benches for sorting gear, having coffee etc.

Image (c) abowland climber

Colin gets ready to tackle Ged (MVS4c) the compelling crack line on the adjacent wall.

Again very steep until the difficulties ease at 2/3 height.

CB efficient as ever

AT follows cleanly, excellent route.

(Photo-montage)

AT summoned up maxi-gumption to overcome the steep, bold and intimidating start of Kirsten Wall HS4b 

(otherwise a very nice route!)

Climber is on Scarlet  Lyvenett MVS 4b (will have to come back and do that one)

Image (c) abowland climber

 Then CB upped the ante to make a fine lead on Marik (pictured).

(H?) VS 5a.

Havnor (VS5a) is 4 metres left.  AT led some of it, then retreated unselfishly so CB could do the more exciting bit higher up.

Give Give Give!

Image (c) abowland climber

The Flake (HS 4b)

"A fine climb which requires a determined approach"

Colin had one of those handy so he led up it.

Leaving AT to finish on Percy Throwup (VD) after some serious gardening to reveal the holds buried under a carpet of ivy.  Had a bit of a gibber when a hold came loose.

Life's a beech

Lyvennet up!

Routes 5 and 6 worth a star

Park Nab Mob Job

 Good Friday April 15th

Today's choice driven by bank holiday factors, in particular avoiding traffic jams, parking pandemonium, and crag chaos.  Taking account optimum weather forecast, it seemed a good call to go for the relative obscurity of;

Park Nab

Arrived at about 10.15, no trouble parking but someone else had already had the same idea!  A couple of guys had rolled down from Chester le Street and beaten us to it.  But that was it for the day and they were good company so all-in-all a good call.

Welcome party laid on by the locals

CB sets out on the monster walk in

All of 10 minutes

The Durham crowd (the two of them) take on Zero Route

Moments before the leader kicked out the gear.

Kept going, not much option!

Cracked off  a few routes, all a bit of a struggle.

CB get's ready to belay AT up the always intimidating Twin Cracks.

Despite a trepidated mind-set and a bit of initial gibbering managed to complete the lead without too much drama.

Finished direct over the rocking capstone

CB after lunch on Pinnacle Crack Right Hand.

It's all in the name.

A tidy top rope by our companions for the day.

Hari Kiri Direct.

Long Bow led by CB, nearly finished off AT struggling on second.

L-R

Forked Cracks

Twin Cracks

Lady's Gully

Pinnacle Cracks (Left and Right)

Chockstone Chimney

Wall Bar Buttress

Long Bow 

The sun came out again so a trip to the Jet miners was just a small detour.

Note; D = Desperate

(all grades start from there)