Peak Repeaters

Monday October 1st

This week's window opens early.  Party of three gets out of the brisk north westerlies and with a good chance of some rays at this year's
Go-To Gritstone venue:-

Yarncliffe Quarry

In a bit of a quarry quandary but Yarncliffe gets the vote over the neighbouring Lawrencefield to take advantage of the ongoing dry conditions while they last.

BP well wrapped up on Latecomer.

Maybe a bit too early, sun not round yet.

All a bit dusty

AT on the small holds low down on Ant's Wall

Much cleaner

Good climbing on positive edges

DC follows in fine style

BP keeps going to get good gear on the LH start of Cardinal's Arete

Undercut hold provides the key to progress up the route

BP phones for a friend then commits to the run out climax

No more gear from here, some bold moves lead to a steady finish

AT returns to Cardinal Slab

Scene of a rather disappointing effort in July

Hmmmm

© Smoreda UKC

Crux moves


Small holds, feels precarious

Inside foot makes the good hold next to a size 1/2 wire


DC said it was a stopper so that's ok then.

More good moves and it's done!!

BP opts for another grapple with Zapple


Ready for a big reach across to the main crack line

BP makes it look quite a bit easier second time round



AT doesn't......


Thanks to DC for extra pics


More pics click here

Return of the Quarrymen

September 26th

BP been away for a while - time to get the band back together.

Between the northern low and southern high there had to be a climbing window to peek through.  Derbyshire looked a good bet - but somewhere sheltered from the westerlies squeezed between the two weather systems. So must be good to have another look around the climbing at;


Lawrencefield

Snail Crack seemed a sensible route to get going, surprisingly tricky at the grade best not to rush it.

BP takes care of the final moves on Nova


Just as well it's all a bit flat and dusty up on the top

BP rapps off with matching top and rope


The finishing wall of Tyrone leans out on the left

Tempting

AT succumbs

Gathering all gumption ready to tackle the sustained section coming up

Turn up the boosters and power up

Limpopo lives up to its name in the lower third but was clean and  dry higher up

The crux moves are satisfyingly close to the top


The gear is big and bountiful

BP impresses a large gathering of field tripping students and gets a big round of applause on topping out



The next route follows the steep twisting crack on the left.


It's three years since AT backed off this with a fit of the gibbers.

Time to man up


The gear is great so why not keep going?

Good to get it done

BP stuffs up the crack and takes a bite out of Gingerbread


Run out finish not for the faint hearted

One more abb for the road

A short walk leads to the as yet untested Roadside Bay

AT tackles a rather oddly named route and finds it quite amenable at the grade

The Big Red Jacket (The Last Wet Wednesday)

Other routes hereabouts either too hard, too bold, or too uninspiring.

 

 

So back to the main bay for a stirling finish up Three Trees Climb

 

 

A great days climbing for the return of BP from his various travels

 

 

Meanwhile a solo shunter makes the most of the late afternoon rays on Boulevard at E3 5c

Bryn Ferranti is 73 today

Sheptember

September 16th

Plan A- Morning at Woden, afternoon at Quayfoot with a Mandrake Mission

However the forecast spell of overnight rain turned out into something more biblical.  After a coffee and buttie at the cafe wandered out to check out the conditions up and behind at

Shepherds Crag

Brown Slabs a bit damp low down but fine higher up where the sun and wind were doing their bit.

CB cuts a typically colourful postion on the way to the belay on Brown Slabs Arete

Watery


All routes descent by abseil

Walk off wet and treacherous








First visit to Shepherds Crag -  twenty years ago
on September 13th 1998
Introduction to lead multi-pitch climbing with NP, DP, JW, WA and Harry.  Some pictures from that day.

Confident....

NP motivating a nervous AT


"Come on
big fellah"

Pretty wet that day as well

Worked our way up the grades....
Great climbing

And Finally

CB disappeared for ten minutes up under Little C and came back with this - apparently there are rich pickings to be had up there.....

Drive in Saturday

September 1st

Drive to Hove
Meal at Urchin with M and V
Off to Portslade for a Bowie Party

Songs included

Heroes

Changes

Ziggy

Man who sold

Lazarus

Let’s Dance

Boys keep swinging

China Girl

Golden Years

Starman

Space Oddity

Ashes

Rebel

Modern Love

Kooks

Life on Mars

Time

Five Years

Suffragette

Young Americans. 

Where are we now

Sorrow

Kyloe Stylo

Thursday 30 August

CB back from Catalunya and raring to go.  A quick fire WhatsApp exchange and we were all set, Northumberland said the man so I made a point of studying routes done and to do at Bowden.  That was a total waste of time as the man announced that todays venue would be

Kyloe

A few parties were grouping up on arrival so we made it snappy up to the first outcrops and set up camp in the Saints Wall area.

Parity (L)

Trinity (R)





Another climber on Trinity
Same helmet and shirt as AT so it will do!

 © andymoin UKC

CB at the same move

CB gets gear on the top wall on St Ivel


Four good routes at this sector then on to the next buttress for the much anticipated lead on Elevator


Unfortunately AT's lift only went to the first floor.  Having placed the crucial gear returned to belay level and swapped leads.   CB presses the right buttons to  move on up.  AT follows in good order.  Next time......

CB in the mood

Coldstream Corner requires power, determination and technique.

Unfortunately AT lacking one or more of these ingredients so had to settle for a supper of Pedigree Chum.

Woof!

Still - brought the gear up for his master.

Conifer Direct used to be overwhelmed by the eponymous tree.

Now it sees the light and is a worthwhile route


Good to get another new one done