Friday, 2 October 2015

All for the Peak

Thursday 1st October
The high pressure continues to hold sway - full tribe out for the Indian Summer and with the Gman returning all options catered for with a visit to Stanage and the Balcony Buttress Area.   Arrival timed to coincide with the sun burning off the morning clag, cue fabulous weather and a festival of spontaneous rope hopping and random tying on - all adding up to a great afternoon on the crag.



Today's Melange


AT in position to move (as in grovel) up onto the Balcony of the eponymous buttress.  The finishing wall is just round the corner

BP on the exposed traverse of the adventurous Little John's Step





NB gives it rock Awl


Full team got this one Dun


PM nice and tidy on a solid 4b


Meanwhile the chaps from Salewa CH piddle about on some nondescript E3 6a



BP gives it his Awl, the Swiss guys lap up the 3c beta




Awlsome


Leide ganz schwierig Spass zu haben





NB makes a bid for the spare place on Trafalgar Square


Jaunty





NB in Amazonia

Powerful moves to get established above the undercut start



As demonstrated by BP

Followed by the inevitable "Pheeeww!"




Late afternoon

Balcony Climb
Steep and a bit dirty
Jams and jugs keep coming


A compelling line

Bombed up it apparently


BP cleans up



Unknown climber seconding "The Link"
E1 5b
FA Chris Craggs 1974
LR
Amazon Crack
Balcony Buttress
Long John's Step
Awl
Dun
LR
Amazon Crack
Balcony Climb
Balcony Buttress
Fairy Castle Crack
Long John's Step
Awl
Awl (ALT finish)
Dun
Bee



Exit via X country to Lady Bower
then
PUB!
Homeward sounds 
cheers Bob!





Tuesday, 29 September 2015

Northumberland Multi-Crag

Friday 25th September

Had a few weeks off in a determined effort to lose strength, form and fitness.  This was clearly successful given a somewhat nugatory effort at a new crag - Corby's, compensated for by steady climbing at a venue last visited in 2009 - East Woodburn.


Corby's Crag




Optimistic outlook on arrival

Corby's has a 2 minute walk in just behind

NB meets Mr Jones
Who turns out to be a slippery customer
Holds very sandy like marbles, feet insecure, hand holds all sloping, no more gear above this point wisely abandoned lead and reverted to top rope rather than risk testing the last cam


By contrast Plonka properly graded at S 4a and excellent well protected interesting climbing throughout worth both stars.


Crossover (S4a) apparently goes straight up then traverses left round the back of the tree.

AT backs off after short fall on gear in first break, poor holds on bulging rock above with ground fall potential.

Had a look at a VS4c with good gear but too steep given state of pump and mind.

Retreated back to car somewhat less than exultant

Headed south for something more predictable

East Woodburn
LR
Green Slab
The Arete
Stilton




NB on Green Slab

The Arete follows the right hand edge on good holds

Spectacular Strahlung

Next Stop - Pub for tales of derring don't












Sunday, 20 September 2015

Seaside book end

Back in Hove for a refreshing sunny day and a cracking lunch at the Santiago.
                      Another fish lunch! 


Mediterranean Exit

Saturday 19th
Return day
Phil dropped off at Trapani, then farewell H&H
Beach morning and lunch at the Tor del Rei beach shack. 
Super sticky day off the scale humid. 
Regroup at villa swim showers load and off. Palermo go slow flight delayed by an hour slow baggage claim late back at broker about 0130 UK time. 


Ciao Guidaloca



Ciao Lido Bella Dies Vacuus



Saturday, 19 September 2015

Parked in the Golf

Last few days - Thursday down the lido on the Golfo with a superb sandy beach and a cracking social evening with a big tray of sticky chicken, procured at the rather marvellous local shop near Scopello,


Another day
Another Lido


Art



Don't look now but we are being watched
Pre pollo aperros

Friday morning down the local lido


meanwhile H's x2 to the cove

Water is lovely down there





Idyllic lunch on the terrace in Scopello what a spot but the local fish are best left in the sea.






Sausages procured cheers Phil



No option but to
LIGHT THAT CANDLE!


Tomorrow back to Blighty
Continued at
Mediterranean Exit











Wednesday, 16 September 2015

Palermo!

Wednesday day trip to Palermo. Lovely city blimey hot. Great architecture lunch Al fresco Piazza Bellini. Great!  Gazillions of pics here's a few.


Teatro Massimo

Scene of Godfather 3 climax





Homage in progress


Mags at the Teatro


G's hat mission has unpredictable side effects....

See more details of this great shop at La Coppola Storta



Team on the traipse


A bit jaunty



Piazza Bellini

Lunch and a rest!
Phew!
Those beers evaporated fast


Frankie Pentangelli regales against the Rosato Brothers 



An historic setting
Dates back to middle ages


No sign of this guy


Mecca for the bread makers


One of the fantastic four corners
Some refreshing Gelati then back for the Airport bus and home via cars




Back to the ranch for a cool off in the pool and some bubbly all round


Brilliant and exhausting day out
Continues at