Thursday, 5 September 2013

Triermaindous

4th September 2013
Castle Rock of Triermain
Slab Climb S 4a (AT)
Wall Climb S 4a (BP)
Kleine Rinne VS 4b (AT,BP)
Direct Route VS 4b (BP)



AT heads up for the fine corner on Slab Climb

BP warms up Wall Climb




Kleine Rinne
Above the hard bit
and
Past the worrying bit





Took a bombproof post bulge belay
Number 11 rock
Two bongs

Plus a number 10 rock close by




BP leading through the jug infested groove
on P2




ANO climber later on moves smoothly through the crux moves

Direct Route

BP in a very fine position after placing a crucial high wire
Uber cheeseville
 Pub?



From car park



Direct route up central crack to the left of climber on Kleine Rinne

Via Media slanting higher further left.


All skies original

Sunday, 1 September 2013

Gardom Stardom

Friday August 30th
Aiming for Dovestone Tor, too windy up there so pressed the
ALT CRAG button
RESULT!








5 routes - 10 stars
Apple Crack VD                   (NB)
Apple Arete VS4b                 (BP)
Velvet Cracks VS4b              (AT)
N.M.C     HVD                     (NB)    
Elliot's Buttress Direct HS4a   (BP)  - NB gets 400 routes done!





NB on Apple Crack

Crux low down

BP gets a load of them Apples

Great position out on a fine line between rock and sky


Pics of Velvet Crack to follow on BPs return!



AT sticks to the eliminate line on Velvet Cracks


N.M.C

No Mean Climb?
Not Many Crimps?
Need More Cams?

Much better than it looks, varied, sustained, crux at top

NB gets laid back





BP bending up


Hard

Very

Difficult


Another buttress
Another poky start

NB gets up close and personal






BP moving up on the lead


NB follows a BP variation finish special at about 4c

Great setting
Promising winter venue

Close enough for jazz


Saturday, 24 August 2013

Big Diff-initive

Thursday 22nd August
Set off with several options, homed in on Needle Ridge, but Sty Head looked pretty clagged in so pressed the ALT-PLAN button which returned a GO-CODE for Combe Ghyll
Raven Crag 
Corvus Diff 157m
AT P1-2,3-4 (variation start)
NB P5
PM P6
NB P7-8





AT scarpa's up direct start, toe jams, pinches, mostly dry

AT on P3

Shared route with..

Libby and Mary in fine style up ahead


NB follows PM's fine lead
across the brilliant hand traverse pitch

PM up and coming
70 minutes walk in - 270m ascent
45 minutes out



Saturday, 17 August 2013

28 years and 7 miles

Friday August 16th
Anniversary Walk
Ullswater. Howtown - Glenridding.



View across
to Glenridding

7 miles
3 hours and a bit








The Punch Bowl Crosthwaite


Wednesday, 14 August 2013

Take Five

August 13th
Bowden Doors

Castle Crack VD (AT)
Crescent Wall MS 4b (AT)
Banana Wall MVS 4c (AT)
Russet Groove VD (PM)
Deception Crack VD (AT)

Below the line the following routes were tinkered with:-
_______________________
Sue (err.... no)
The Scoop VS 4b  (err ... no not this time)
Main Wall HVS 5b  (err...no, thought this was...
Black and Tan S 4b (err.. maybe another time)
Look out for the footless lark....



Solo-ist on Castle Crack


Russet Groove

If 5 were 9!


Monday, 12 August 2013

East Coast

Sunday 11th August
10km walk Sandsend to Runswick Bay
Number 5 bus return at 40 mins past hour


Fabulous coastal path

The Cleveland Way

Catamarans in Runswick Bay


A real cobweb-shifter

Saturday, 10 August 2013

Cymru Classics

August 5th-7th
Snowdonia - Chamois Hut (thanks to CMC)

Monday
After 16 hours of rain (up to our arrival) found some streaks of dry rock at
Pant Ifan Upper Tier (Tremadog)
MTN (S) AT
Gwynedd (VS4b) BP

BP approaches crux

Slippery jams await
V tenuous but no unscheduled flights
Great pro


Pristine evening air





Tuesday
Multi-crag in the Pass
Dinas Cromlech
Flying Buttress (VD)
AT (P1,4-5)
BP (P2-3,6)

AT on P1

Steep
Huge, shiny holds


BP on last pitch

Awkward to start with an easy run out


Sacks (top left)seem a long way down

All in all a character building excursion for the grade.










Carreg Wastad
Skylon (HS4b) BP, AT (two pitches)

BP steadies before some balance moves past the overhang on the left.
Great pro but not easy to place.

P2 quite bold

AT tops out P2

Ran out of time to tackle either of the Classic Rock routes on this crag - but very happy to do this solid HS route, worth 2 stars.







Wednesday
Cwm Idwal
200m integrale of:-
Hope (VD) AT P1,P4   BP 2-3
Lazarus (S - alledgedly!)  BP P1
Groove Above (S) BP lead


View from drive in

Gulp......


Man
on
mission

Starting out on P2
45m done only another 155 to go...


Another climber, another day on P2 Lazarus

Bold traverse up then a well protected steep crux (4b) above the climber

Massive exposure here! (check it out PB!)
 © finleyevan, Apr 2010 UKC




AT in similar spot
photo thanks to Dave Marsh

Impeccable rock of Continuation Wall

Upper slabs at bottom of pic

Lazarus traverse and crux (around shady triangle visible just right of dead centre of pic)

Groove Above is prominent gash upper just-left-centre above white quartz ledge)

Top of route(s)

More to do above but time to head home.

Biggest of the Big.

More pics and topo's click here